This summer I hiked the West Highland Way with a friend. One of the bonuses of that hike was visiting Glasgow a couple of days before the hike (see previous post) and Edinburgh for a few days after the hike.
The day after finishing the hike, we took the long slow train ride from Ft. William back through Glasgow to Edinburgh (see earlier blog post). The UK was in the midst of a huge heat wave, and the train was significantly delayed because of issues with the track due to the heat. As we exited Waverly Station and I looked around through the warm haze, I knew I would love this city. We stayed in a private room in the HI Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel, which is outside the central area, but an easy walk to old town and other areas.
Outside Waverly Station
Our first stop was the Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile. The castle offers a glimpse into the history of the area, and is a great vantage point to view the city. The walk up to the castle is quite steep, but definitely worth it. But beware, this area is very crowded.
Edinburgh Castle on the Hill
View from Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle Cannon
Right outside the castle area, on the Royal Mile, is the Tartan Weaving Mill, which has floors of tartan woolen goods from many mills. It’s fun to walk through and appreciate all the beautiful items. Down in the basement is a weaving display which is interesting. People debate whether the prices are higher in this store than at other areas in the city, but I didn’t see much of a difference in price, and the variety was much greater than the smaller individual stores. I bought a scarf for myself and for a friend who was helping me hold down the fort at home. The Royal Mile was fun to walk down, but for me, once was enough. (Although I would have happily returned to the fudge shop). However, it’s fun to wander down the side streets and the old town area in general.
Not too far from the Royal Mile is the Writer’s Museum. Tucked away in Lady Stairs Close (alleyway), off the Haymarket, this museum has a collection of manuscripts, portraits, rare books, and personal objects to highlight the lives of three Scottish writers: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Lewis Stevenson. The museum is housed in a townhouse originally built in 1622 for Sir William Gray and Lady Gray. It is a tall narrow house with a great small circular staircase.
Writers Museum
For an interesting experience and a nice lunch, visit the National Museum of Scotland. This is a fascinating museum with lots of exhibits that are different from what I’ve seen in other museums. I especially appreciated the four story “Window on the World” exhibit in the Grand Gallery, which covers four stories open to the main floor. On one of the upper levels is a nice café with tables that overlook the exhibits.
National Museum of Scotland
Dovecot Studios (Infirmary Street) is an amazing tapestry and creative arts studio that operates in what was originally the Infirmary Street Baths, which were the first public baths in Edinburgh, dating back to 1885. The Dovecot Tapestry Studio occupies what used to be the old swimming pool. From the balcony cat walk around the studio, you can watch artists at work and tapestry classes in progress. There are also various exhibits throughout the facility.
Dovecot Studios
If you enjoy modern art, the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art One and Two, is a fun place to visit. It is actually two separate buildings set in a sculpture park. There is a circular bus that runs between this museum, the National Portrait Gallery and the Scottish National Gallery if you want to see all three in one day.
Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art
We spent an entire afternoon wandering around New Town which houses many of the city’s restaurants and hotels, and retains much of its neo-classical and Georgian period architecture. There are a lot of fun shops on Princes Street and George Street. Rose Street runs parallel to Princes and George Street and has a number of eateries and pubs. Friends recommended Hendersons Salad Table Vegetarian Restaurant on Hanover Street and it was excellent.
Rose Street – New Town
After three days of sightseeing, we returned back to Waverly Station for the train to London. I really enjoyed my time in Edinburgh and can’t wait to return in the future.
See future blog posts on the sights of London.
The West Highland Way starts out near Glasgow. I’m fortunate that I can pick up one of the reasonable Aer Lingus flights that go through Dublin and then on to various locations in Europe – including Glasgow. At the Dublin airport, you take a bus out to the smaller planes on the tarmac. I must say some of us were amused to pull up to this plane that was possibly older than many of us. But we had a smooth hour or so trip into Glasgow.
In my hiking gear I have a perfectly good Grayl bottle that is an amazing water filter. Because I mostly day hike, the Grayl bottle was gathering dust in the closet. Now it’s one of the first things to go in my travel bag. Previously I always made room for my Kleen Kanteen stainless bottle (that I use daily). The Grayl bottle is only slightly larger. I can drink directly from the Grayl bottle or if I have the room, I can decant the water into one of my collapsible water bottles. Three I use are Nomader (rolls up, but is very sturdy when in use), Vapur (rolls up) and Hydrapak (collapses). Now instead of worrying about purchasing all that bottled water and generating all that plastic waste, I simply fill up my Grayl bottle from the bathroom sink and seconds later I have clean and tasteless water.
Shopping Bags – For years I have used reusable grocery shopping bags and now use reusable vegetable and bulk bags as well. I also have several lightweight bags that stuff down to little packets and are easy to keep in my purse for smaller purchases. I take one of these with me when I travel. They’re great to use when doing light shopping while traveling.
restaurants, I often grab something at the grocery store or take out place that requires a fork or spoon. Instead of picking up a plastic fork or spoon, I use the reusable combination fork/spoon that I keep in my purse. Other options are reusable bamboo silverware sets or regular silverware from home. Some people also carry reusable straws.
Small Containers – When I’m sightseeing I like to have small snacks like nuts, trail mix, or peanut M&Ms with me to keep my energy up. I used to travel with a handful of snack-size plastic bags to fill each day from the stash I’d keep in my hostel or hotel room. Instead now I use a small ½ cup plastic container with a screw on lid. I fill it every morning and wash it out at the end of the day.
Wax Wraps – I’ve started using Abeego cloth wax wraps at home instead of plastic wrap and they work great for travel too. They take up little room and are great for a handful of nuts, fruit, a sandwich, cookies and similar items. You just rinse them out after use and they’re ready to reuse. Eventually the wax wears out, but they are recyclable, and last a while before this happens.
for your luggage if the train is crowded.
Even though some days I was hiking with a friend or other people on the trail, much of the time I was alone with my thoughts and just soaking up the beautiful surroundings and amazing sense of peace. The second half of the 
hike takes you up into the highlands where I felt on top of the world and with the exception of a handful of other hikers, there were no houses, animals, people or roads for as far as the eye could see in any direction. The path in front of you and behind you just disappeared into the distance.
2 debit cards
Scottevest – This vest with multiple inside pockets and some zipped outside pockets is my ‘go to’ for traveling. I can fit everything I need to protect in the pockets. When the vest is zipped up, I’m comfortable that my valuables are well protected. But the vest has some downsides to consider. When loaded, the vest becomes bulky, heavy, and quite warm. It also puts all my valuables in one place and the look of it screams ‘tourist’. So, while the Scottevest is a great option, I often add some type of on-body pouch to hold some of the valuables and employ other alternatives when I choose not to use the vest. What I do miss when not wearing the vest is the cell phone pocket at chest height inside the vest that allows me to pull out the cell phone without exposing the rest of my valuables.
PacSafe Neck Pouch – This pouch is on an adjustable strap that loops around the neck and either hangs in front or on the side of the body or tucks into the front of the pants. It holds a passport and cash/cards and is relatively comfortable. The downside is during warm weather the strap around the neck is visible, announcing to the world that you’re carrying a hidden pouch. In my opinion, this works best with turtlenecks or a scarf that covers the strap.
PacSafe Bra Stash – I’ve avoided these in the past, because frankly I didn’t think I had enough to contain anything. But this bra stash (and others like it) have a strap that goes around either the bra itself or the bra strap before you tuck it in, so it seems more secure. Some have metal clasps or snaps, so I’m not sure what happens with these at security. This one has plastic parts.
Stashbandz Belt – This is an interesting product that was developed for runners and for people who need to carry certain medical equipment on their person. It’s a stretchy 4-inch belt that sits between the navel and mid hip. It has two pockets in front (one zipped) and two in back. It carries cell phone, keys, wallet, money, etc. – although carrying all of them at the same time might be a bit bulky. I’ve just purchased this and haven’t given it a good test, but the reviews are mostly positive.
Money Belt – In the past I’ve used a money belt (which for many people is a good alternative), but because I tend to have a gap in the waist of my pants, I have trouble keeping the belt sufficiently hidden. Money belts often have enough room to hold a passport plus cards and cash. Just make sure you find one that fits you properly and your clothing accommodates it.
PacSafe Personal Safe – This item is too bulky to pack in a suitcase when traveling light, but is a great addition when on a road trip or renting a cottage, etc. It’s big enough to hold a tablet and other items. The bag locks and you run a cable around a pipe in the bathroom or other permanent object to secure the bag to the object. This works great in places where there is no safe and you don’t want to take all your valuables with you.
n on Saturday afternoon. My daughter-in-law, grandchildren and I join the Ragnar festivities and then we all have a quieter Mother’s Day celebration.
There’s no shortage of terrific restaurants in Provincetown. One of my other favorites is Ciro and Sal’s, which is has wonderful Italian Food. I went there for the first time in 1974 and have never been disappointed. If you’re looking for traditional seafood and Portuguese fare, try the Lobster Pot. They also have lots of gluten free options, if you must eat gluten free like me.
he beach or sit and watch the water. You’ll need a sweater because the ocean winds are cool.
So, what do you do when a family member goes to a conference in New York City for 4 days and offers you the second bed in the room for free? Well, you hop Metro North to Grand Central Station. Even though it was late January (2017), with warm clothes and boots, NYC is still a great place to explore. At the time I came in, it was just as easy to walk to the hotel and with my backpack suitcase, I didn’t have to worry about rolling my luggage.
